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Baker, Samuel White, Sir, 1821-1893

"Cyprus, as I Saw It in 1879"


The asserted existence of henna as "an indigenous shrub which originated
the name of Cyprus," is an instance of such mistakes, similar to the
descriptions of "HEATH-covered surface," when no such plant exists upon
the island.
The longer I remained in the neighbourhood of Kyrenia the deeper was my
regret that the arrivals of strangers should take place in the southern
ports, instead of receiving their first impressions of Cyprus by an
introduction to this lovely coast. I was never afloat on the northern
side, but the view must be strikingly impressive, as the trees, ever
green almost to the water's edge, shadow the rocky coves, and clothe the
surface to the base of the mountains, whilst, at a short distance from
the land these must appear as though rising abruptly from the sea. The
castles upon the extreme summits form unmistakable landmarks, resembling
sentries on either side the fort and harbour of Kyrenia.
On 6th April the general rendezvous was the monastery of Bellapais,
three and a half miles distant from Kyrenia, in response to the
invitation of Major McCalmont, 7th Hussars, on the staff of Sir Garnet
Wolseley, who had taken immense trouble for the gratification of his
guests by sending tents, baggage, and sleeping accommodation for two
nights, in addition to every kind of necessary refreshments.
The route from Kyrenia lay through a country of the brightest shades of
green, parallel with the sea, about a mile and a half distant, towards
which a succession of deep ravines, which formed river-beds in the rainy
season, drained from the mountains at right angles with the path.


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