The large population of
this neighbourhood is principally engaged in the production of silk, for
which the locality has long been famous. Every garden that surrounded
the houses was rich in mulberry-trees, together with oranges and lemons
and the luxuriant foliage of the almond. We rode along steep paved lanes
within the town, through which the water was rushing in refreshing
streams, until we at length reached the precipitous edge of the ravine,
which in the rainy season becomes an important torrent. Although some
flour-mills are worked, I observed a terrible waste of water-power,
which might be turned to account for machinery. I heard the usual excuse
for this neglect, "The people have no money!"
We had ridden fast, and were far ahead of the baggage animals; we
accordingly halted to lunch beneath a shady caroub-tree near the edge of
the ravine, about fifty feet below. A French game-bag, with net and
numerous pockets, always contained our meals, which consisted of a cold
fowl, some eggs boiled hard, and a loaf of native brown bread or
biscuits. This was luncheon and breakfast, as we never indulged in more
than two meals a day, merely taking a cup of cafe au lait, or cocoa, in
the early morning, and our lunch or breakfast at any hour that
travelling made convenient. This depended upon the attraction of some
pretty spot or wide-spreading tree that suggested a halt.
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